The steepness of the rock walls and the distance of the potential fall make the ice caves an adventure best reserved for those who are physically fit and experienced.
The ice caves are a dark and often harrowing world secreted away below the surface of Mount Graham, not far from Soldier Creek.Â
PHOTO DUNCAN WALKER
Nothing is more frightening than being alone in a cave, deep below ground.
Imagine – in the dim illumination from your dollar-store flashlight – all you can see is bats, bat dung, and tall, jagged rocks. You've been out of sunlight for so long, you forget what it feels like to see your surroundings. You climb down rocks so tall it would be certain death if you slipped; and you can't figure out if it’s more terrifying to look at the bottom with your flashlight or stare into an abyss.
I experienced something very similar when I managed to find the Mount Graham ice caves. Although there are a couple entrances, none of them are near the trail. This makes them places only a perceptive hiker finds and one with an adventurous spirit ventures down. Without the proper equipment, you are sure to find yourself out of luck very quickly, without phone service or even a voice loud enough to scream for help.
A couple of summers ago I made the trip up to the Soldier Creek Campground where I met up with some friends. We easily got the best camp site because it was surrounded by large boulders that made for a good climb. The surrounding area was full of Mount Graham’s signature pine trees, divided in half by the raging Soldier Creek. The campground sat atop the steep mountain side, with a trail in the very back. This trail led to some great views of the entire mountain. Being up there, seeing the tiny towns of Willcox and Bonita below you, puts into perspective how vast our mountain range is.
I ventured into the caves with two friends. After only about a quarter mile down the trail, we turned left and started walking down the mountain side. It was a steep incline but not compared to the underground world beneath our feet. After scanning the surface, we were finally able to find the narrow entrance of the cave mouth, not more than 1,000 feet from the trail. I stuck my head in and was immediately bewildered at how much it opened up. I grabbed a rock and tossed it down. It went down a hole on my right and we could hear it fall for a while, so far that the smashing noise turned into a faint echo. With my light in hand, and my feet far away from the right side, I ventured in first.
The steepness of the rock walls and the distance of the potential fall make the ice caves an adventure best reserved for those who are physically fit and experienced.
PHOTO DUNCAN WALKER
The first drop into the main entrance is challenging because you have to slide down a rock face on your stomach and land on small footings. If you miss these footings, you may survive the drop, but not without injury. Light at this point is also non-existent. As for my mate with a fear of heights, this obstacle proved too much for him, and he stayed at the top (a very smart decision if the cave seems at all too difficult). I continued to traverse down using rocks on my left side to get down the rock face.
The bottom opens up into a large room, made up of tall stacked rocks with multiple corridors to explore. The walls are covered head to toe with a glossy paste that sparkles a golden blue color when illuminated. It may look beautiful at first glance until you see the dozens of bats clinging to rocks high above you. The rocks are covered with bat guano; thus gloves wouldn't be a bad idea.
Continuing from here is incredibly difficult without ropes. One way leads you over a rockbed. Strange symbols such as arrows drawn with ash can be identified on many rocks. Eventually I found myself overlooking a 20-foot drop, with no way down except for a rope someone had left in the past. At the bottom I truly felt like I was in a place that no one else had ever been. Without ropes, I had to turn around and try the other main corridor.
At the bare minimum, a visit to the caves requires a reliable headlamp and appropriate footwear.
PHOTO DUNCAN WALKER
The other way wasn't any less challenging. Looking up I saw a pinhole of light – the very same hole I threw that rock down. In front of me were two vertical rock faces, and the only way across was to put my hands on one side, my feet on the other, and shimmy across a very dark, deep drop. I cautiously made it to a large boulder wedged in between the rock faces, and found that to be a good resting spot. I could've gone further, but I definitely would have needed ropes if I was planning on making the climb out.
The caves remain one of my favorite spots on the mountain. They are hard to find, not visited often and make for a memorable adventure. Historically, the caves got their name from storing ice year round for early settlers. When Mount Graham had year round snow, people would go to these caves in the summer months and harvest the ice to both cool off and store food. Only now are we able to discover what that ice was hiding.
The caves should not be attempted if proper gear is absent. A bright headlamp is the bare minimum requirement. Ropes also come in handy but the most important things to bring are experience and good judgment. I honestly wouldn't go down if I was under 5-foot-6 as there are more entrances to be found in the area.
However, there is nothing quite like the sense of isolation and awe these caves evoke. There is no way to replicate the darkness or silence. If you turn off your light, you exist as a helpless consciousness shrouded by a void of nothingness. Nothing feels more liberating than to claw your way back up to daylight.
